Shhh! Don’t let anyone know I made it…

Ah how nice it is to sleep in a real bed! We are not taking back our satisfaction of our last night train, but there is something to be said about begin an actual bed…even if it is a squeaky, old bunk bed. We woke up ready to rock & roll with a bit more Berlin viewing. After a hostel breakfast (with actual Peanut Butter!!!! Yum Yum Yum!) & stowing our bags at reception we hit the town.

We didn’t talk much yesterday about Berlin as a modern city. It’s become a reall awesome place. First there’s the surreal feeling of being at a location filled with so much history. It’s got a lot of sights & experiences. But outside of the tourist realm it’s still a great place. There is more graffiti here than anywhere else we have been so far. It’s also a bit dirty & gritty…but that might be it’s best feature. It feels so real. It is the kind of place you want to go back to for more than a couple of days. It’s somewhere you’d want to experience like a local would, because it seems like a great place to live… 30 years ago, who would have thought someone would think that?

We knew the sights we wanted to see today from yesterday’s touring. We started at the Checkpoint Charlie Museum. This museum is located right beside the checkpoint and wall. It first opened as an exhibition in 1962, shortly after the wall was built. Today the museum contains numerous photos and displays showing the many ways people tried to escape East Germany. And boy were there some original ideas! Our favorite was a woman escaping on a train in 2 suitcases with the one side cut out so she could lay between them. The exhibit really succeeded in bringing this period to life and showing the desperation many had to escape to the West.
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This photo goes with yesterday’s story of the tanks faced off at Checkpoint Charlie. The black & white photo is of the Soviet tanks rolling in…the other is us on the same spot…

Our path followed the path of the wall to the still-standing section. It’s slightly unimpressive. You look at it and think “Yeah it’s pretty high” and “that’s a lot of concrete & rebar” but it’s only because you can’t get the full effect. It didn’t need to be any higher, as the tubing across the top (ironically bought from West Berlin) prevented people from getting a handhold to boost themselves up. It wasn’t very thick because people rarely actually reached the wall. There would be a perimeter of no-mans land around it that no one would step foot in (hence the name) for fear of soldiers, explosives and automated guns. We walked along the free-standing piece and tried to picture what it would be like to see something like this appear overnight. It’s not an easy image to conjure!
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Right beside the wall is the Topography of Terror. Yesterday we told you how this was where the Nazi Gestapo and SS headquarters were. The ground is covered in small rocks that are all that remains of these buildings. The site will forever be this way, as a way to remember the horrible ostrasities planned here…lest we forget & history repeats itself. There is one building on the site though. It houses a exhibit walking you through Nazi Germany.
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When this site was completely brought to rubble in 1987 they discovered the cellar and prison cells where many political prisoners were tortured and executed. These sites were excavated and have now been included in the memorial. Inspired by them a timeline of photos and documents were gathered. These depict the rise of Hitler, the terror of his rein and the treatment of both the people of Germany & occupied nations. The photos inside the museum were both interesting and horrifying. To see the faces of so many who died, or of their bodies laying dead from gunshot wounds or hanging. And to see the faces of those who caused that pain, in one photo stoic…the face of war…but then happy & laughing with the other Gestapo in the next picture (as if they had not just taken countless lives).

We used our last few hours in Berlin to walk around a bit more. We made our way to the Alexanderpatz square and then back to the restaurant infested center just off of museum island. Here we found a great pizza lunch deal. Because of our train schedule tonight this was to be our big meal of the day. We ended up each getting a pizza and a Berliner Weisse beer and the meal was still below €20. This time Justine go the red shot in her beer, which makes it pretty much the same as the original but with a slightly different taste…and it’s red…but inherently the same… Her pizza was pepperoni, salami, mushrooms & peppers. Kristin had a seafood & cherry tomato pizza.
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Say hi to Kristin’s new friend!
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Tonight we head into central Germany. This post is going to leave off at about 6 pm because that’s what works best considering our travels. More stories tomorrow!

Love, Luck & Lots of Toast,
K&J

They’re not even real Americans…do you want your photo with the fake Americans?

Alright, we last left our heroines sitting in the Munich train station. They were tired and full of beer (well, at least Kristin was). After a crappy nights sleep on their last train & too much fun at Oktoberfest they were not overly enthused about sleeping on a train again…..

If you recall, we were parked in front of Starbucks. This Starbucks happened to be rigt on the platform our train was coming to…convienent! We had 5 minutes until our train was supposed to leave and 4 minutes till Glee would be done downloading. That might have been a problem, expect our train wasn’t even there yet… As it worked out: the train arrived, 2 minutes later we had Glee so we hopped on the train and were easily settled in before it left.

We expressed yesterday our apprehension about another night train but it was definitely not warranted. This time, rather than being contorted in a 6 person box, we had our own reclining seats. They were in a slight C-shape so they were perfect for snuggling in the middle of once you had it laying back. In other words, it was not only way more comfortable then the night before, but just as good as having an actual bed! The trip from Munich to Berlin was approx 10 hours so we had time to watch our newly acquired Glee episode and then catch plenty of Zzzzzz’s. Once the lights were turned down (slash Justine had on her eye-mask & Kristin had pulled her giant hood over her eyes) and we had our earplugs in, we were set for a full & restful nights sleep.

We woke up just outside of Berlin. The train got in at 8:30 so we knew we wouldn’t be able to check in to our hostel yet…being as it wasn’t even checkout time. We killed a little time having breakfast at the station. Justine had a gigantic coffee from Dunkin’ Donuts which was exactly what she had been craving. We then hopped on the S-Bahn (over-ground city rail line) to our hostel. There is also a U-Bahn (underground trains) in the city, but we can ride the S-Bahn with our Eurail pass so we’re sticking to it for transport. The hostel is quite nice with really awesome staff. It’s the kind of place that makes you sad you’re only there for one night. It was still early so they let us dump our bags in the storage area so we could explore the city.

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We started at the Brandenburg Gate. This is where the free Sandeman’s New Europe tour starts. Our train trip there took longer than we hoped though, so we missed the 11 am tour…as it turned out, this was a good thing 🙂 Since we were in the area we strolled down the Unter Den Linden. The Unter Den Linden used to be one of Europes grand boulevards, however the war was not kind to it. After WWII bombing leveled it out, the Cold War turned it into a depressing no mans land (as it was way to close to the heavily guarded wall). Now it’s a street lined with boutiques, souvenir shops and trendy little cafés. At the other end is the German History Museum. This gigantic building houses the story of Germany, from the areas first inhabitants right up to a quick look at the nation today. It was very interesting to learn about the country’s origins as we didn’t know much about them. Being the factual girls we are, here’s a brief run-through of ancient history: Beginning in the 10th century German territories formed part of the Holy Roman Empire encompassing much of central Europe until 1806. During the 16th century Germany led the Protestant Reformation under Martin Luther and finally amidst the Franco-Prussian war, Germany finally became a nation in 1871.

As expected, particular attention was paid to Germany’s more recent history. We were curious as to how the exhibits chronicling the modern wars would be set-up, but we found everything very well done. The presentation was very factual, like a museum should be. There were no excuses, no hiding, no blame and no apologies. Just the facts, with the interpretation left to you. We know everyone has at least a base knowledge of the wars years so we’re not going to do a history lesson just yet. We’ll touch on these important periods at other points throughout today & tomorrow.
The inter-war years may have been the most interesting part of the whole museum though. You learn so much about about each of the wars in school & life & talking to Grandpa, but to really see how connected each conflict was to the others was amazing. Justine had taken courses on warfare and WWII in university and she was always fascinated in this period. But if you’re like Kristin and finding yourself constantly learning new things on this trip, here’s the jist: Germany was a broken country after WWI. The Treay of Versailles blamed Germany for the war and they were forced to pay the damages. The country couldn’t afford such things as the Great Depression hit. The monarchy was overthrown and revolution created a new republic. With such political upheaval new extremist, reactionary and revolutionary political parties developed, including the National Socialist German Workers Party – aka the Nazi party. With a smart and charismatic leader the party quickly achieved incredible success. This rise to power is truly extraordinary! In 1933 Hitler was democratically elected to power and a parliamentary act gave him unrestricted power. Hitler established a centralized totalitarian state within months and thus began the 12 years of the Third Reich.

Visually, it was neat to see the propaganda posters produced by the countries involved in the second world war. Hitler is known as a bit of an expert at winning public opinion and his advertising showed it. There was also an interesting progression from initial recruitment to mid-war posters encouraging people to stick with it, victory was just around the corner (and yes, both sides were printing these). Having already seen how France and Britain remember the war it was also very interesting the see the German side of things. They were very respectful to those who suffered but, like in any war, the soldiers were fighting for their country and are therefor honored by their country.

As you can probably tell, we learned a lot and really enjoyed the history museum. In fact, we enjoyed it so much that we didn’t emerge for 4 hours…and that was only so that we could make it to the 4 pm walking tour. We both agree we could have spent another 2 hours browsing the exhibits slower. Anyway, we left the museum with enough time to grab a cold drink & a quick snack/lunch. If your interested: we split a panini and a big pretzel. They like pretzels here. We also like pretzels 🙂

We joined up with the 4 o’clock New Europe free walking tour. Tim, who you may remember as our Amsterdam tour guide, had set the bar really high in the guiding business, but our guide today was up to that challenge. He was incredible…funny, and serious, and deep, and light, and everything in between…maybe we’re just easy to please, or maybe this company really knows what it’s doing when it hires people. We think Berlin is an extra challenging place to be a guide as the history is generally quite dark and deep. It was amazing how we got all of the information & seriousness of that side of Berlin and yet didn’t spend the whole tour depressed.

The first stop on our tour was the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. This memorial is close to the size of a city block, and yet has no signs, no descriptions and no explanations. The premise has always been that it is left up to you to decide what you feel while walking through the memorial. Let’s start with a picture:
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It is really just as it looks…grey concrete blocks spread out over grey cobblestones. But the overall look is almost dizzying as you look at the large expanse of shapes & sizes. As you enter the ground becomes uneven and hilly at parts. The stones get larger until they loom above you, some leaning at angles into your path. There is a clear line in front of you and to the sides every couple of steps (the whole thing is set-up in a even grid) but somehow you still feel slightly lost & majorly isolated. The people around you disappear, then reappear, only to be gone another second later.
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After emerging on the otherside everyone had their own thoughts on what it all meant, but everyone agreed it was a moving & thought-provoking tribute.

Berlin is amazing for paying its respects and creating memorials…when the situation calls for it. This was evident as we crossed the street from the Memorial and stood in a residential parking lot. On one side was the previous location of the giant Nazi government building Hitler built after he burned down the old parliament building. We learned that 15m below our very feet Hitler had his secret bunker. On April 30, 1945 it was here where he committed suicide. Victory didn’t seem likely when the British were bombing every night, the Americans every day, the Allies approaching from the west and the Soviet tanks were just outside of Berlin to the east. There is no memorial, no sign, no record of anything ever happening here…and that is how it will remain. Remembrance will be given only where remembrance is due.
As a side note, the parking lot was right outside the apartment building where Katarina Witt lives.

The next stop was the only remaining building from the Nazi regime. This building, built in 1936, was the Luftwaffe (German airforce) headquarters during the war. After the war it became the communist Ministry of Ministries and is currently part of the German Finance Ministry. As it is the only Hitler-era building to survive bombing, we were told it features prominently in any movie about WWII. Standing beside it you could understand why this building succeeded at being a feared location. It was huge and imposing, with dark brick. It’s all hard angles, solid square pillars and thick window-sills. It is just not a happy looking building.
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Continuing chronologically we arrived at the Topography of Terror. This area marks the site of the command centers of Hitler’s Gestapo (secret police) and SS (Hitler’s personal bodyguards). Because of the horrible things planned here, every building has been reduced to rubble. The pieces still scatter the ground as these buildings will always be left as rubble and this land will never be developed again.

And just next to the Topography of Terror just happens to be a section of the Berlin Wall. Ta-da!
Following the end of the war, Germany was subdivided into 4 sections by the 4 post-war world superpowers (United States, Britain, France, Soviet Union). Unfortunately the Cold War developed between the capitalist United States and the communist Soviet Union and Germany ended up divided into East & West factions. Berlin lay right in the middle of the Soviet sector and technically should have been part of East Germany. However the Western sectors did not want the capital to fall to the communists. Naturally, Berlin was divided into 4 sectors, just like the rest of the country. While a wall existed (as part of the Iron Curtain) separating East and West Germany there were originally no restrictions within the city. At this time, up to 2 million East Germans escaped to the West via Berlin. This all came to an end one night in August 1961. Overnight a circular wall was built around West Berlin. The next morning you were no longer allowed to travel to the other side of your city…even if you worked there or your family lived there.

We followed a cobblestone line laid right in the road. These stones run through the entire city marking the path of the wall.
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Our particular path lead us to Checkpoint Charlie. This Checkpoint was one of few checkpoints and passages through the wall. Here the American sector of Berlin came face to face with the Soviet sector, and it was here the Cold War nearly became a Hot War. Shortly after the wall was built, the two sides began to test each other. The Soviets would push and, not wanting to appear weak, the Americans would push back a little harder. This escalated until one day 40 Soviet tanks arrived at the famous crossing, prepped and loaded. The next day 40 American tanks sat facing the originals ready to strike. It was only through a personal phone call from American President John F Kennedy to Soviet leader Kruschev with a peaceful plee that the situation was difused.

We next arrived at Bebelplatz. On one side of the square is the German State Opera. This is the only building to be completely bombed twice during the war! It was bombed by British troops in 1941, but rebuilt in 1943 to boost morale and celebrate its centennial. It was bombed shortly after in 1945 by American flighters. The building was currently in scaffolding as all the best buildings seem to be…. Which brings us to an interesting thought. The majority of Berlin was destroyed during the war. However, like any city in Europe, Berlin has its fare-share of historically old looking buildings. All of these buildings were rebuilt in the exact same style, often with original materials. It is crazy to think these buildings are not hundreds of years old like they look!

In the middle of Bebelplatz (aka this large square surrounded by gorgeous buildings) is a glass window in the ground. Looking down you are faced with the Memorial of the Burned Books. In 1933, 20,000 forbidden books (often Jewish authors) were burned on this square. It was a statement against anyone who did not fit into the Nazi’s narrow view of a perfect society. The memorial was simple but powerful and summed up in an old quote written on a nearby plaque: “Whenever they burn books they will also, in the end, burn human beings.” -Heinrich Heine (1820)
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The tour concluded on the steps of one of the museums on Museum Island. (Check out our view…)
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Here we heard how the people of Berlin fought to be reunited in 1989. East Germany was allowed to make their own decisions when Gorbachev came to power & changed the way the Soviet Union was being run. After peaceful protests attracting more than a million people and some uninformed East German leaders, the Berlin Wall finally fell in November 1989. The city was united after 28 years and Germany was reunified shortly after. It’s hard to believe this happened only 22 years ago…it happened in our short lives! It was a powerful story and really shows what people can accomplish is they are in search of peace & unity.

The tour ended up being 3.5 hours…not bad for free! Of course we did tip our extraordinary guide so it wasn’t completely free, but it was cheap and totally worth it. This just left time for supper before we headed back the hostel & got our stuff organized (days of night trains can leave your bag in a state of disarray). We had made friends with two other people on our tour: a girl from Vancouver & Erik from Saskatoon. We decided we would have Canadian bonding time. The four of us wandered over to a restruant-y area and chose a place at random. It ended up being a Spanish Tapas bar. If you’re worried we’re not eating traditional German food, don’t be. Rick Steves told us it is hard to find that stuff in big-city-Berlin but it will be everywhere in our next couple of German stops. We muddled our way through ordering as figuring out what Spanish food is in German is just plain difficult. We ended up all splitting a tapas plate & a giant payaya. It was all so good! The payaya was fantastic with just the right amount of spices. The tapas had a lot of variety while still staying simple.
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The highlight though was the beer. Berlin’s signature beer was invented by the French when they came to occupy the land at some point… They didn’t like the “beery taste” as Justine would call it so they added a shot of woodruff to the local brew. It’s called Berliner Wiesse and it is green. It tastes like a 5-cent candy…the kind with sugar on the top & the white foamy stuff on the bottom…like a cross between a peach ring and a gummy frog. Aka, its delicious (although unrecognizable as beer). Oh and to top it off: you drink it with a straw…
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Love, Luck & Lime Green Beer,
K&J

Skoal!

We know you have all been waiting on baited breath for our next post…and we have definitely kept you waiting. We’re sorry about that but with night trains and so much to do & see, we just haven’t had time to write and/or the means to post. But we are back & better than ever…or at least just as good…we hope…

We know you have all been anticipating our tale of our first night train! Well here is our opinion…it was an adventure…not necessarily a postive one…but not an entirely negative one… Our seats ended up being in a compartment. In case we never mentioned, all night trains need prior reservations so you have a specific seat. If you need help picturing a compartment watch Harry Potter…it’s just like on the Hogwarts Express except the seats are a bit more divided and less of a continuous bench. There were 3 seats on either side. We were the ones closest to the door, so we were across from each other. The seats didn’t lay back. They also didn’t leave you a lot of leg room when you consider here’s another person across from you. Our compartment was full with 4 other people also crammed in. We were able to turn off the light & we had eaplugs (as always) but it was very difficult to get comfortable. We both did get some sleep but just couldn’t get a good long, continuous sort of sleep going. It was very disjointed and not entirely restful. Oh well…hopefully tomorrow will be better…

We “woke up” in Munich. Yes that does mean we have officially reach country #10! We celebrated by finding a train station bathroom to change & fix ourselves up in. Being as it was a night train into Munich during Oktoberfest, there were a lot of other girls doing the same thing. Justine was feeling pretty tired at this point as she is a fan of a good-nights sleep so Kristin started trying to wake her up. She realizes that she was probably being more annoying than helpful but she was really excited about the day ahead! We found ourselves a station map to direct us to day-use lockers. At first glance we weren’t sure our bags would fit, but then we turned the corner. Here we found lockers big enough to easily fit both of our bags in one. With extra space! Nice deal.

At this point it was 8:30 am…is 8:30 am too early to show up at Oktoberfest? We thought maybe a bit so we found some pastries & coffee and wandered around the central station area of Munich. Eventually we made our way to the subway and went the one stop to the Oktoberfest grounds. We say eventually because there was some major delay in the train showing up…we of course have no idea what it was, being as everyone was spouting off angry German (which probably wasn’t actually angry, German just makes people sound unhappy). But we got there!

And boy was it cool! Think Stampede but instead of it being about Cowboys & Rodeo, it’s about Leiderhosen & Beer. We’re serious about the Leiderhosen too. Everyone is dressed up. At least one third of the men are in their checkered shirts, high socks & leather Leiderhosen. And at least a quarter of the women are in cute traditional, peasant-style dresses. It was awesome!

Everything is set up like a standard fair-type event. There was a midway with rides. There were a million food stands selling traditional German food. There were also a million souvenir stands selling anything you’d ever want. Then there were the cookie stands. They were large heart-shaped cookies with icing decorations & sayings written on them. They sold them everywhere so this must be a normal thing. They also had a string through them so you could wear it around your neck…lots of people did.
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We did 2 full laps of the grounds. The first one was just us trying to take it all in. The second was to take in the main event: the beer halls. There are lots of them…more than you would expect…and they are huge! Each it decorated in it’s own special way and has it’s own specialty beer, food and traditions. The halls themselves are like giant barns with tables and wood benches everywhere. You can reserve tables if you are serious about being right where you want to be, but the unreservedly section is where the party is really at.
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Being the experienced girls we are (don’t look at us like that…university isn’t just about school learning) we knew we had to eat some lunch before we hit a beer hall for good. We missed the corn dog, mini donut & deep-fried-everything stands we woud normally find at a fair…but we are here to embrace the culture! After examining many booths we made our picks. Justine got a schnisel-y sandwich. We are still not sure what type of meat it was made with but it was breaded & bunned and she thoroughly enjoyed it!
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Kristin couldn’t resist the sausage stands. She got a Brathwurst dog with some yummy onion toppings. Basically Kristin couldn’t be happier, being that she has entered the land of beer & sausage (Justine is holding out for 2 weeks till we hit the land of pasta & wine).
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Selecting a beer hall was almost as hard as picking food, but we had done our research. After our “looking-in lap” we decided we liked the look and feel of the Haufbraus Tent best. It was decorated with hops (because all of our brewry tours have taught us to recognize them) and already had a pretty hopping un-reserved section. We walked around until we found a free space and plunked ourselves down. There was pretty decent party going on with lots of rowdy boys & girls.
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There are beer-maidens walking around who are happy to grab you a beer. These girls are amazing! They come from all over Europe just to waitress for the couple of weeks of Oktoberfest. Apparently the pay isn’t great, but the tips are utterly amazing. It’s not unusual to see them carrying around 8 full beers. And let’s not forget that these are not your average bar pint, these are giant glass tankards holding a liter of beer each! The waitress for our area (who, for any of you who have seen the show, looked just like Casey from Greek) grabbed us each a liter for ourselves.
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Then we mingled. We had some New Zealanders behind us, an Aussie couple on one side and a group of Norwegian men on the other. They were all really social and fun and we had soon bonded with everyone. It’s easy to bond when you’re all there solely to have fun & drink beer. Justine is proud to say she drank about 3/4 of her beer. Kristin drank all of hers…plus at least half of the one a nice Norwegain bought her after…eek… At least she wasn’t one of the people standing up on the table and attempting to chug their whole drink. The entire hall then cheered or booed at you depending on your success. The whole situation is so hard to describe, but was so much fun. There is a traditional band playing traditional music with tubas & accordions and everything. Approximately every 10 to 15 minutes they would play this one song and everyone in the hall would get up (often on their benches) and sing along. It was in German so we were just trying to make sounds similar to everyone else. We did get someone to translate it for us though and it was something along the lines of “Cheers – Cheers – Cheers – We all drink more and we are all happy – Cheers – Cheers – Cheers.” Truer words were never spoken.
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The cheersing was an intregal part of the event…but did you know it’s also very dangerous? During one enthusiastic round the cups all clinked a little too hard and chip actually flew off Justine’s glass. Look at the far side of the cup…
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The chip then decided to hit Justine in the eyebrow! She was suddenly just bleeding! Kristin whipped out her glasses cloth to staunch the flow and then Justine found Kleenex to clean it up. It was just a tin cut…nothing serious…but she is lucky it didn’t hit her further down in the eye.
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Eventually Justine wanted to go do a bit of souvenir shopping & Kristin wanted to ride some roller coasters. So while Justine did her thing Kristin tagged along with her new Norwegian buddies and forced them to ride roller coasters they were afraid of. She really didn’t force them, she just said she was going on and they felt to lame to back out if the only girl was riding.
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It was all just a surreal experience! So cool to have seen! So cool to have taken part in! Justine is really glad she’s done it once. Kristin wants to do it every year!

Now we are seated at the Munich train station. There is a spot of wall where we could prop up our bags and scam off Starbucks’ free internet. We don’t feel too bad seeing as it’s kinda slow & frustrating. In a matter of minutes we will be boarding our next night train. Kristin remembers reading something about reclining seats in one of the reservations she made, btu there is no guaranteeing that it was this trip, or that the reclining seats will be any better than the compartment from last night. It’s a long trip tonight so we have lots of time to try to fit in some sleep…which hopefully will work out better than last time. Justine is starting to turn into a zombie and even Kristin (aka the girl who never sleeps) is starting to feel like she could use a good rest. Either way we have a bed in Berlin tomorrow night…Yay! Wish us luck!

Love, Luck & Leiderhosen,
K&J